![]() You can skip this step if you are happy with the amount of chipping already! After the piece had dried from the misting, I took a wet microfiber towel and wet sanded the areas I wanted more of the base colors to come through. Rehydrating the paint and adding a little heat can be a great way to achieve a more chippy finish. I started distressing first by misting the entire piece down with water in sections and lightly going over it with my heat gun. I let these top layers dry completely before moving on to the next step. Some of the base layers of paint chip away to the wood, and some of the top layer of Grain Sack chips away allowing the base colors to show through. As the paint begins to dry, this is when the magic happens. 2) Because I wanted to seal the base colors in, so they did not bleed into my all-over lighter top layer of paint.Īfter the Shellac was completely dry I painted two layers of Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkPaint™ in Grain Sack mixed 1:1 paint powder to water, as directed on the bag, and applied using normal brush strokes. 1) Because I wanted the layer of Shellac to resist some of the next layers of paint and chip allowing some of the base colors to show through. I sealed this base layer of paint using clear Shellac. When your base layer is dry and looking like a sad version of camouflage you are ready for the next step. If you attempt this technique, you must trust the process! It looks insane and quite chaotic, but I promise it works itself out! In areas that I felt needed a second coat, I did touch them up with a second layer of paint. When I initially mixed the paint, I added just slightly less water than is suggested for added texture from the thicker paint as well. ![]() I applied the paint using a pouncing or stippling technique to bring out the most texture. I alternated Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkPaint™ in Ink Blue, By the Sea, and Schloss. ![]() I randomly painted different darker colors that I wanted to show through the top layer of paint and left some areas with the wood still showing. In order to get a lot of texture, chipping and various layers showing through I began by painting my base layer. I hand sanded the entire piece using 220 sandpaper. I did want some chipping from the MilkPaint™, so I very lightly sanded hoping it would chip in areas where a bit of the finish was left. There was very little sheen or finish left on this piece, so it just needed a quick scuff sand. After it was clean and dry, I was ready to sand! Sanding This piece had been in storage for many years, so I vacuumed it all out and I scrubbed it down using dawn dish soap, a sponge, and microfiber towels. I filled the deep scratches using Bondo and filled in the previous hardware holes so I could have centered knobs. I went around to all the loose joints and secured them with wood glue and clamps. It did have a broken door hinge, a few deep scratches, and a few joints that had wiggled loose over the years. This washstand was in great shape overall. Peel and stick wallpaper for drawer and shelf lining Small glass drawer pulls found at Hobby Lobby Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkOil™ Indoor/Hemp Seed Oil Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkWax™ in Antiquing Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkPaint™ in Grain Sack Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkPaint™ in By the Sea Miss Mustard Seed's® MilkPaint™ in Ink Blue I already snagged that little pouch off of my Schrade and added it to my BK2 sheath, though.Miss Mustard Seed’s® MilkPaint™ in Schloss Schrade also includes a separate, removable pouch which comes mounted on the front of the sheath. These are a pretty nice option for a truck knife or a camp knife, especially when you consider their price ! (around $40). Next, I might look into picking up some better scales for this one or maybe try my hand at making my own new scales for it. After that, I did the BubbleWrap treatment for 20 minutes and then I removed the mustard and all of the fingernail polish with Denatured alcohol and lightly oiled the blade and re-assembled. The extra step was to crumple up some alum foil, then unwrap it and lightly coat it with the mustard and apply to the blade for around 30 minutes. I did another Forced Patina and this time I added in another step to my process.
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